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Doghouse Construction Guide
Introduction | Planning | Materials & Tools | Construction Phases | FAQ
Construction Phases
Floor Structure and Decking
The 48" by 48" frame has two joists spaced at sixteen inch intervals. I used 2X4 pressure treated lumber. Since this wood will be close to the ground and unsurfaced, pressure treated wood is mandatory. It is the only wood that will resist rotting and infestation. Pay the extra money for this part of the construction materials. Just like with any construction, the sixteen inch structural support spacing seems to work fine. The decking was half inch plywood. Since my dogs weigh as much as people do, so I used the thicker plywood for the floor, and the thinner (three/eighths inch)wood for the sides. Click here to view a picture of the floor structure.
Side and Back Walls Construction
Examining the dog houses at the competition led me to the conclusion that 2X2 lumber was suitable for sidewalls. One of the houses was over eight feet tall with interior balconies, windows, and a beautifully crafted cedar shake roof. I was surprised to see 2X2 construction throughout, but it was sturdy and larger than 999 out of 1000 dog houses will ever be.
The two sides and back of my dog house were almost identical, the sides measuring a bit shorter to allow for the width of the back. The height was 36 inches, which in retrospect was excessively high, but better too much than too little. All four sections were assembled seperately, using galvanized L-brackets with wood screws and a few nails. Click here to view a picture of a side wall.
Front Entrance Wall Construction
The front piece resembled a Japanese gateway shrine. The height of the lintel was determined by my largest dog's standing height. Click here to view a picture of the front wall.
Fastening Walls to Floor Structure
The pre-assembled sections were then fastened to the decked base with wood screws and nails. Click here to view a picture of the side walls being attached.
Additional screws, nails, and L-brackets were used to tie the four sections to each other. Click here to see all four walls attached to the floor deck and each other.
Roof Construction
To me, this was the trickiest part. The greatest help I had was a steel 30-60-90 triangle and my jughead buddy, Pendejo, who (because he was struck in the base of the skull by a small meteorite at age ten) is good at geometry. I knew that a 30 degree roof pitch would be adequate for runoff, and looking at my own house's roof showed me the technique of notching the joist so that it rests atop the wall structure. Finesse is involved at this stage, my measurements on the plan did not exactly match the reality of what I needed so adjusted the measure so that it would work. We made one accurate prototype "V" joist out of 2x4 lumber and used it as a template for the other two. Remember please to allow the roof to overhang by a few inches for decent runoff. Click here to see the picture of the roof joist. The three roof joists on my project were fastened to the frame with nails and spaced at 24 inch intervals Click here to see the picture of roof joists being fastened to frame. The joists were then reinforced with a 2x2 spine. Click here to see a picture of the roof spine. I urge you to have someone help you out during the entire framing process but especially during the roof part because it is complicated and can be physically impossible for one person to do, depending on the size of the dog house.
Siding and Roof Decking
Click here to see a different view of the completed structure before siding was applied. I am a big proponent of plywood. I say this because I do not like the way that particle or chip board warps and puffs under the influence of moisture. Even if you live in a desert climate, your dog might knock over water or inadvertantly whizz in or near her structure. Click here to see a picture of roof decking being applied. So that being said, measure and cut the sheetwood carefully, it is the most expensive material in the project and the easiest to mess up. A lot of places that sell plywood will cut it for you, but you might have to pay a fee for each cut. I would recommend this if you can afford it. Be absolutely dead sure about your measurements. Even though having a pro cut your sheets will save you major coniptions, they probably wont cut those weird triangle or trapezoid pieces that comprise the gable or roof of even the most basic structure. If you do not understand the fundamentals of how to use a circular saw, log off the internet now and learn how to or get a skilled individual to do the cutting for you. No part of this project is potentially more dangerous than this.
Just be careful.
Oh, yeah. Nail the siding to the frame. Click here to see it. When you finish this phase you can look inside the house and see how it looks enclosed. If you have built one as big as mine, you can actually get inside and check it out. Click here to see a picture of the dog house interior.
Roofing
Asphalt shingles were my material. I picked ones that were the same color and texture as the roof of my house. If you use some other kind of roofing material you are on your own to discover it's worth. If you use shingles wear heavy gloves or you will grate your skin down raw. The way to shingle the roof crest is by folding or cutting the shingle into three pieces and using them folded across the crest. The last one will enivatably need to be glued down, so use roof cement (tar), liquid nails or something of that ilk to stick it down. Click here to see a picture of the shingled roof and finish trim.
Finish Trim and Paint
Finish trim is used to cover gaps in the plywood. If you need some ideas for how to do it or what kind of materials to use, look at your house or the closest building to where the dog house will be situated. I say, let the site dictate the final appearance of your dog house. If you love your house and yard, make your dog house an integral part of your grounds (think Kennedy Compound or that computer guy's house, only on a smaller scale.)
I used white paint because our new house was painted white, and because I happened to have some white paint on hand. When I paint the human house with a new color or get a new roof I will, of course, make these changes manifest on the dog house. Click here to see the a picture of the finished product.
Foundation
Use bricks, cap blocks, concrete blocks, stone blocks or a similar masonry material to raise the house up above the soil line. Having a level comes in handy here. It is probably a good idea to leave a ventilation crack or two on at least two sides.
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